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Traverse in pitch 3 makes you sing. The next one- a steep corner makers you scream. Out of joy. | |
| Klemen, ending his shift in pitch 3.. | ![]() |
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Pitch 7, steep slabs, great rock, interesting passages. | |
| The route Črni Biser is only partially equipped with pitons. Only crux sections are well protected. | ![]() |
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| Approx 80m long traverse, which is done in 3 pitches, starts with slab climbing, followed by some steep sections. The third pitch is a full 40 metres airy traverse | ||
upper sections offer joyful climbing in slabs and corners.. |
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Descend eastwards, along the Mojtrovka ridge, down the Hanzova pot (via ferrata) and back to the Tamar valley (3hrs) , or from Mt. Mojstrovka, down to Vrsic pass (1611m) (1.5hrs) | |
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click for: topo- lower part Topo -upper part |
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Črni biser, FA:. Franček Knez in Lojze Cajzek, 1980. Mt Travnik, north face, Julian alps, Planica-Tamar valley. 700m, UIAA grade 7, (4-6+) A demanding route in a big face. True modern classic of the great, world renowned Francek Knez. Great rock, except in the second pitch. The crux is finding right passages, although the route is not really difficult to read. Still, topo is essential. Estimated climbing time - anywhere between 6 and 14 hours. Every ascent under 10 hrs is considered fast. Equipment needed: 2 x 60m rope, 5-8 pitons, set of friends or nuts. 10 quickdrawas. 120cm slings. From pitch 8 on, there is no in-situ protection. Check for the approx. location ofpitons on photo and sketched topo. |
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